Save The smell hit me before I even lifted the lid: milky, smoky, and faintly sweet. I was standing at my stove on a drizzly Tuesday, watching pale fillets of haddock bob gently in simmering milk, and I realized this was the kind of dish that makes you forget the weather outside. My neighbor had dropped off a beautiful piece of undyed smoked haddock that morning, still cold from the fishmonger, and I knew immediately I wanted it folded into something creamy and warm. Risotto felt right.
I made this for my sister the first time she visited after moving abroad. She walked into the kitchen just as I was ladling in the last of the stock, and she said it smelled like home, which surprised me because we never ate risotto growing up. But there was something in the gentle rhythm of stirring, the warmth rising from the pan, the soft golden color, that felt like care made visible. We ate it straight from the pot, standing at the counter, and she went back for seconds before I even plated mine.
Ingredients
- Smoked haddock fillets: Look for undyed fish with a pale, natural color, it is gentler in flavor and does not stain the rice an artificial yellow.
- Whole milk: This becomes part of your cooking liquid, so do not skip it, the creaminess it adds is irreplaceable.
- Fish or vegetable stock: Keep it hot in a separate pot so the rice cooks evenly and does not seize up when you add cold liquid.
- Arborio or Carnaroli rice: Arborio is easier to find, Carnaroli holds its shape a bit better, either works beautifully here.
- Onion, garlic, and leek: The holy trinity of gentle aromatics, they melt into the background and let the fish shine.
- Butter and olive oil: The combination gives you richness and a slight fruity note that balances the smoke.
- Parmesan cheese: Freshly grated is key, the pre-grated stuff clumps and does not melt into the rice the same way.
- Flat-leaf parsley and lemon zest: Brightness at the end, like opening a window in a cozy room.
- Black pepper and sea salt: Taste as you go, smoked fish can be salty on its own.
Instructions
- Poach the haddock:
- Slide the fillets into a saucepan with the milk and bring it to a bare simmer, just a few lazy bubbles around the edges. After 5 to 7 minutes, the fish will flake easily, lift it out gently and set it aside, but keep that milky liquid, it is liquid gold.
- Soften the aromatics:
- Warm the olive oil and butter in your widest pan, then add the onion, leek, and garlic, stirring until they go soft and translucent but not brown. This takes about 5 minutes and fills your kitchen with the kind of smell that makes people wander in asking what is for dinner.
- Toast the rice:
- Tip in the rice and stir it around for a minute or two until the edges turn glassy. You will hear a faint crackling sound, that is when you know it is ready for liquid.
- Add the poaching milk:
- Pour in all that reserved milk and stir until the rice drinks it up. It will look loose and pale, almost like rice pudding, and that is exactly right.
- Ladle in the stock:
- Now comes the meditative part: add the hot stock one ladle at a time, stirring often and waiting until each addition is mostly absorbed before adding more. It takes about 20 minutes, and the rice will slowly turn creamy and tender with a slight bite in the center.
- Fold in the fish and finish:
- When the rice is just right, gently fold in the flaked haddock, Parmesan, lemon zest, and parsley, being careful not to break up the fish too much. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and add a final knob of butter if you are feeling indulgent.
- Rest before serving:
- Pull the pan off the heat, cover it with a lid, and let it sit for 2 minutes. This lets everything settle and marry together, and the texture becomes even silkier.
Save There was a night I made this and forgot to buy Parmesan. I stood there staring into the fridge, annoyed, until I spotted a wedge of aged Cheddar hiding behind the butter. I grated it in anyway, and you know what, it was delicious, sharper and a little less traditional, but my husband ate two bowls and said it tasted like a hug. Sometimes the best versions of a recipe are the ones that go slightly off script.
Choosing Your Fish
Smoked haddock can vary wildly depending on where you buy it. The bright yellow stuff has been dyed and tends to have a more aggressive smoke flavor, while the pale, natural fillets are subtler and sweeter. I always go for undyed because it lets the delicate brininess come through without overpowering the rice. If you cannot find haddock, smoked cod or even hot-smoked salmon work beautifully, just adjust the poaching time since salmon is more delicate.
Making It Your Own
This recipe is a foundation, not a rule. I have stirred in peas for color, swapped the leek for fennel when I wanted an anise note, and once added a splash of white wine before the stock because I had half a glass left over from dinner. A friend of mine folds in spinach at the end and says it makes her feel virtuous. The rice does not care, it just wants to be stirred with patience and fed with warmth.
Serving and Storing
Risotto is best eaten immediately, straight from the pan while it is still loose and creamy. If you do have leftovers, they will firm up in the fridge, but you can revive them the next day with a splash of stock or milk over low heat, stirring gently until they loosen again. I have also formed cold risotto into patties, dusted them with breadcrumbs, and fried them in butter for lunch, which is a completely different dish but equally satisfying.
- Serve it in wide, shallow bowls so every spoonful has a bit of fish and a tangle of creamy rice.
- A handful of peppery arugula on top adds a nice contrast if you want something green and sharp.
- Pair it with a crisp white wine, something with acidity to cut through the richness, Sauvignon Blanc or a dry Riesling both work perfectly.
Save This dish has become my answer to grey days and long weeks. It asks for your attention but gives back tenfold in comfort and flavor, and somehow, it always tastes like you care.
Recipe FAQ
- → Can I use fresh haddock instead of smoked?
Fresh haddock can be substituted, but you'll lose the distinctive smoky depth that defines this dish. Consider adding a pinch of smoked paprika to the stock for a similar flavor profile.
- → What can I substitute for Arborio rice?
Carnaroli rice is the best alternative as it maintains creaminess while staying firmer. In a pinch, short-grain sushi rice works, though the texture will differ slightly from traditional risotto.
- → How do I know when the risotto is properly cooked?
The rice should be creamy and flow slightly when stirred, with individual grains tender yet firm to the bite (al dente). It typically takes 20-25 minutes of gradual stock addition and constant stirring.
- → Can this dish be made ahead of time?
Risotto is best served immediately for optimal creaminess. However, you can poach the haddock and prepare the vegetables in advance. Cook the rice just before serving for the best texture and flavor.
- → What wine pairs well with smoked haddock risotto?
A crisp, dry white wine like Sauvignon Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay complements the smoky fish beautifully. The acidity cuts through the creamy richness while enhancing the delicate seafood flavors.
- → Is the poaching milk essential to the dish?
Yes, the milk absorbs the smoky essence from the haddock and infuses the rice with incredible depth. Discarding it would waste significant flavor that makes this risotto uniquely delicious.